Thursday, November 13, 2014

Inside Out

When I posted my Chocolate Shirt Dress, many of you commented on the colorful hem tape peaking out from the skirt in one of the photos.  I love using hem tape as a way to add some color, especially when a garment is made from one solid, neutral color.  I thought I would take a moment to share some things I do to liven up the inside of a garment, or at least make it pretty.

For my shirt dress, not only did I use a cranberry colored hem tape along the hem, I also inserted in two other places.  There is a pop of color along the waist line (which also acts as a way to conceal the raw edges, as french seams are too bulky at the waist).  Another pop of color is inserted where the collar is attached to the bodice.  There is no raw edge to hide here, but it just makes the inside more cheerful.  I like to use french seams where ever possible, but one place where french seams are not always possible is the side seam when a pocket is inserted.  In this case, I chose to make a bias tape out of a closely matching cranberry satin and use hong kong seams along the sides of the skirt.

 For my Colette Beignet I used french seams for the entire construction of the shell and lining pieces.  Many instructions will tell you to notch and clip curved seams, and therefore french seams are not advised.  However, I find that if you make a very narrow seam (less than 1/4"), the seam is still able to press flat.  This was my first time using a Colette pattern, and I was very impressed with how every raw edge is concealed in the construction of the skirt, it makes it easy to have a beautiful inside.  However, I am still glad I used french seams, because I can be hard on my clothes (especially with the washing machine) and I wanted my raw edges to be extra protected.

In sewing up my Belcarra Blouse, it was quite easy to use french seams just about everywhere.  The one place where french seams weren't possible was attaching the binding for the sleeves.  What I did here was fold under the raw edge (of the part that would normally be serged and visible when inside out) and sew along that line after the binding was attached.  Sorry, that is probably a horrible description and only makes sense to me.  The effect is that it looks a bit like a self-bound seam and no raw edge is exposed.

For my Renfrew I had to be a little bit less creative with the finishing.  I don't own a serger, which is typically how knits are finished, and the properties of knits make it so things like french seams and bound seams don't really work.  I sewed each seam with a special knit stitch on my sewing machine (I don't have a serger, but at least my sewing machine is a good one).  The stitch looks more like tiny lightening bolts rather than a zig zag.  To finish the seam, I used another knit stitch that somewhat resembles an overlocked stitch, but not exactly.  I am relatively new to sewing with knits and do not have any other fancy tips here, but feel free to chime in if you have something to offer here.

Lastly, I have my sweater.  So, there's not really anything you need to do to finish a knit sweater - blocking is really the only "finishing" that needs to be done.  I did however throw in one extra with the sweater and that was to reinforce the button band with petersham ribbon.  I love how this give a bit more structure and stability to the button band, while also making the inside a bit more pretty.

Those are the things I have been doing lately to finish my hand made garments.  What are some of the things that you do with your hand made clothing?  Do you like the process of taking your time to make the inside look lovely, or is it more gratifying to get a great fit and move onto something else?


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